Borneo Jungles: The Beauty of Disconnecting

Hello Internet!  After nearly 3 weeks in the jungles of Borneo and over a week laid up in bed back home  it’s a pleasure to reconnect.  Or is it?

If there is anything that I’ve learned on this month-long hiatus, it’s that wifi is worse than any drug.  Truly.  I realized that I had a problem when I was more stressed out at not being able to connect than I was by being so remote that I couldn’t buy cigarettes.   (Even in Brunei, the height of modern civilization in Borneo, there are no boozy beverages or smokes to be found.  But I was more saddened by the fact that the wifi was too slow for me to connect to my website. . .)

On a practical front, I was concerned that while traveling alone, I had no means of telling friends and loved ones that I had not been devoured by a crocodile.   (I did get attacked by leeches on two separate occasions — but that’s its own story!)  On an emotional front, I felt like a crappy friend who couldn’t be consistently accessible to friends going through tough times.  One by one my Word Feud and Words with Friends Games were automatically resigned.   And without Facebook — a key tool not only for my blog but for my LIFE — whatever was a girl to do?

EVERY once in a blue moon, the planets (or more accurately, the satellites) would align for JUST long enough for me to receive a flurry of updates and Whats App messages — only to disconnect before I was able to reply.  The WORST was not being able to respond to a birthday invite from a friend in Jakarta, and to just barely get three words out to her on the actual day.  But amazingly, one’s true friends are surprisingly understanding about the realities of leaving the urban jungle for an entirely different one.

Like beating any addiction, the first 48 hours were the hardest.   But then slowly I discovered new ways to stay engaged and in touch.

No wires -- no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

No wires — no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

1)  News.  Just like in the “old days” news DID make it to the jungle with each new wave of visitors.  I learned about the horrific events in Nepal from an actual person.  As a result, rather than voyeuristically perusing news updates and heartbreaking photo montages, we quietly mourned those lost, and reflected on how lucky we were in so many ways.

2)  Sensory Stimulation.  The only thing better than cute monkey videos is seeing monkeys in action — in the flesh.  (And, I might add, some interesting mating habits were revealed!)  My first day in the jungle, I literally couldn’t see the forest for the trees.  But by the second and third days, I found my eyes identifying both primates and birds camouflaged in the leaves — and being quite proud of my newfound abilities.  (Unfortunately, since I don’t have a zoom lens, you’ll have to take my word that the fuzzy blobs in my snaps are in fact animals and insects in their milieu!)

3) Social Engagement. As a single traveler (and a woman) I frequently find myself using my devices to keep potential weirdos at bay — from the endlessly chattering seatmate on a long-haul flight, to Casanova acolytes who assume that there is no earthly way you could be content with your own company. Maybe it’s just that willingness to venture into the jungle automatically makes you kind of cool — but overall I met some amazing people that I probably would have been less inclined to engage with under other circumstances. (I am frequently described as “reserved” or “slow to warm up.”)

4) Sleep Quality. I truly do believe that unplugging, coupled with trekking and fresh air, had a positive effect on my ZZZ’s. This made me generally more sharp, observant, and communicative. Since I know that in reality I will probably continue to be on at least one of my devices before sleep, a more practical long-term solution that I plan to explore when I return home is amber-tinted specialty glasses designed to filter out blue light.

5) Gratitude. Without distractions, and living an albeit temporarily simpler life, I found it easy to take time out to appreciate how lucky I was. In many ways, this is the most important lesson of all.

So a blogger can’t post without Internet access — but at the same time, may come up with unexpected inspiration without it. . . .


On Marathons and Meanderings – A Weekend in Inner Mongolia

Recently I was thinking about the purpose of this website.  Giving yourself a specific purpose to take a short weekend away somewhere, I believe, will always add something to your trip.   A national day here, solar, lunar or other celestial holiday there — a literary festival in Ubud, Bali, or maybe even a volunteering opportunity.  Whatever the reason, having something to base a short trip around is a fantastic way to discover the new and unique.

With this in mind, I got to thinking about a trip I took a couple of years ago in China.

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Smiling to mask the pain!

In 2012, I decided to run the Grassland Extreme Marathon (or really half, for sake of disclosure!) in Xiwuqi, Xilinhot, Inner Mongolia. I had decided to participate not just because I am one of those people who finds exhaustion and sore muscle fun — but also because I ran it with a group of others for Operation Smile a wonderful organization which provides free cleft lip/palate surgery to children around the world.  Doing something like this for an NGO really does add something to an already amazing adventure.

The journey was not the highpoint but that was more to do with my planning than anything.

The problem is that if you look at a map of China, Beijing to Inner Mongolia does not seem too great a distance. But it is MUCH farther than you expect. Taking the coach the event organizers had arranged was not the brightest idea I have had but the die was cast. (Interestingly enough, a cancelled flight and work in Ordos meant that I would have to do a similar journey a year later. . . )

So taking the coach was much like all coach journeys, boring, tiresome, and the odd stop in the middle of nowhere. The thing is about this part of China is that often roads stretch off into the distance before stopping without being completed. Leading to an 8 hour journey taking somewhere in the region of 13 hours.  You definitely get a sense of the vast expanse that is China — but that’s about it.  So should you decide to follow this itinerary, catch one of the many flights to major cities in Inner Mongolia daily from Beijing.

Xiwuqi is a tiny town on the edge of the wide expanse of the Mongolian grasslands. Small but very beautiful, it has a gorgeous Buddhist monument overlooking the town square, which entails a very pleasurable hike. The people are as friendly as you can imagine. They go all out to make you feel welcome and are always wanting to take a picture with visitors.

The three day trip that was part of marathon included hotel and food – both more than adequate for this part of China. It also had the option of staying in a yurt the night after the marathon for a party thrown by the local government.  Who could resist this?

Now, when I did this there was so much food and baijiu on the go that it was hard to keep up, especially after running.  (Since the crackdown on lavish spending, it is hard to believe that it will be quite the same.)  Either way, staying in a yurt was well worth it whether you are being plied with alcohol or not.

The grasslands themselves passed me in a sweaty blur. However, when I did take a few moments to drink in my surroundings, they were stunning. You are never likely to see a bluer sky in your life, and the moment wild horses run past you, your breath is truly taken away. Even if you do not do a run, you can get out into the grasslands with ease and take in its beauty.

Honestly I cannot speak of this trip highly enough. The beauty of Asia – especially for runners – is that there are so many out of the way places that hold events to participate in. If you are not a runner there are so many other reasons to take a short trip into the unknown.

If this post has convinced you to unleash your inner masochist, you can learn more about this year’s Extreme Grasslands Marathon here.