Borneo Jungles: The Beauty of Disconnecting

Hello Internet!  After nearly 3 weeks in the jungles of Borneo and over a week laid up in bed back home  it’s a pleasure to reconnect.  Or is it?

If there is anything that I’ve learned on this month-long hiatus, it’s that wifi is worse than any drug.  Truly.  I realized that I had a problem when I was more stressed out at not being able to connect than I was by being so remote that I couldn’t buy cigarettes.   (Even in Brunei, the height of modern civilization in Borneo, there are no boozy beverages or smokes to be found.  But I was more saddened by the fact that the wifi was too slow for me to connect to my website. . .)

On a practical front, I was concerned that while traveling alone, I had no means of telling friends and loved ones that I had not been devoured by a crocodile.   (I did get attacked by leeches on two separate occasions — but that’s its own story!)  On an emotional front, I felt like a crappy friend who couldn’t be consistently accessible to friends going through tough times.  One by one my Word Feud and Words with Friends Games were automatically resigned.   And without Facebook — a key tool not only for my blog but for my LIFE — whatever was a girl to do?

EVERY once in a blue moon, the planets (or more accurately, the satellites) would align for JUST long enough for me to receive a flurry of updates and Whats App messages — only to disconnect before I was able to reply.  The WORST was not being able to respond to a birthday invite from a friend in Jakarta, and to just barely get three words out to her on the actual day.  But amazingly, one’s true friends are surprisingly understanding about the realities of leaving the urban jungle for an entirely different one.

Like beating any addiction, the first 48 hours were the hardest.   But then slowly I discovered new ways to stay engaged and in touch.

No wires -- no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

No wires — no makeup, but definitely a cave spelunking badass!

1)  News.  Just like in the “old days” news DID make it to the jungle with each new wave of visitors.  I learned about the horrific events in Nepal from an actual person.  As a result, rather than voyeuristically perusing news updates and heartbreaking photo montages, we quietly mourned those lost, and reflected on how lucky we were in so many ways.

2)  Sensory Stimulation.  The only thing better than cute monkey videos is seeing monkeys in action — in the flesh.  (And, I might add, some interesting mating habits were revealed!)  My first day in the jungle, I literally couldn’t see the forest for the trees.  But by the second and third days, I found my eyes identifying both primates and birds camouflaged in the leaves — and being quite proud of my newfound abilities.  (Unfortunately, since I don’t have a zoom lens, you’ll have to take my word that the fuzzy blobs in my snaps are in fact animals and insects in their milieu!)

3) Social Engagement. As a single traveler (and a woman) I frequently find myself using my devices to keep potential weirdos at bay — from the endlessly chattering seatmate on a long-haul flight, to Casanova acolytes who assume that there is no earthly way you could be content with your own company. Maybe it’s just that willingness to venture into the jungle automatically makes you kind of cool — but overall I met some amazing people that I probably would have been less inclined to engage with under other circumstances. (I am frequently described as “reserved” or “slow to warm up.”)

4) Sleep Quality. I truly do believe that unplugging, coupled with trekking and fresh air, had a positive effect on my ZZZ’s. This made me generally more sharp, observant, and communicative. Since I know that in reality I will probably continue to be on at least one of my devices before sleep, a more practical long-term solution that I plan to explore when I return home is amber-tinted specialty glasses designed to filter out blue light.

5) Gratitude. Without distractions, and living an albeit temporarily simpler life, I found it easy to take time out to appreciate how lucky I was. In many ways, this is the most important lesson of all.

So a blogger can’t post without Internet access — but at the same time, may come up with unexpected inspiration without it. . . .

On Marathons and Meanderings – A Weekend in Inner Mongolia

Recently I was thinking about the purpose of this website.  Giving yourself a specific purpose to take a short weekend away somewhere, I believe, will always add something to your trip.   A national day here, solar, lunar or other celestial holiday there — a literary festival in Ubud, Bali, or maybe even a volunteering opportunity.  Whatever the reason, having something to base a short trip around is a fantastic way to discover the new and unique.

With this in mind, I got to thinking about a trip I took a couple of years ago in China.

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Smiling to mask the pain!

In 2012, I decided to run the Grassland Extreme Marathon (or really half, for sake of disclosure!) in Xiwuqi, Xilinhot, Inner Mongolia. I had decided to participate not just because I am one of those people who finds exhaustion and sore muscle fun — but also because I ran it with a group of others for Operation Smile a wonderful organization which provides free cleft lip/palate surgery to children around the world.  Doing something like this for an NGO really does add something to an already amazing adventure.

The journey was not the highpoint but that was more to do with my planning than anything.

The problem is that if you look at a map of China, Beijing to Inner Mongolia does not seem too great a distance. But it is MUCH farther than you expect. Taking the coach the event organizers had arranged was not the brightest idea I have had but the die was cast. (Interestingly enough, a cancelled flight and work in Ordos meant that I would have to do a similar journey a year later. . . )

So taking the coach was much like all coach journeys, boring, tiresome, and the odd stop in the middle of nowhere. The thing is about this part of China is that often roads stretch off into the distance before stopping without being completed. Leading to an 8 hour journey taking somewhere in the region of 13 hours.  You definitely get a sense of the vast expanse that is China — but that’s about it.  So should you decide to follow this itinerary, catch one of the many flights to major cities in Inner Mongolia daily from Beijing.

Xiwuqi is a tiny town on the edge of the wide expanse of the Mongolian grasslands. Small but very beautiful, it has a gorgeous Buddhist monument overlooking the town square, which entails a very pleasurable hike. The people are as friendly as you can imagine. They go all out to make you feel welcome and are always wanting to take a picture with visitors.

The three day trip that was part of marathon included hotel and food – both more than adequate for this part of China. It also had the option of staying in a yurt the night after the marathon for a party thrown by the local government.  Who could resist this?

Now, when I did this there was so much food and baijiu on the go that it was hard to keep up, especially after running.  (Since the crackdown on lavish spending, it is hard to believe that it will be quite the same.)  Either way, staying in a yurt was well worth it whether you are being plied with alcohol or not.

The grasslands themselves passed me in a sweaty blur. However, when I did take a few moments to drink in my surroundings, they were stunning. You are never likely to see a bluer sky in your life, and the moment wild horses run past you, your breath is truly taken away. Even if you do not do a run, you can get out into the grasslands with ease and take in its beauty.

Honestly I cannot speak of this trip highly enough. The beauty of Asia – especially for runners – is that there are so many out of the way places that hold events to participate in. If you are not a runner there are so many other reasons to take a short trip into the unknown.

If this post has convinced you to unleash your inner masochist, you can learn more about this year’s Extreme Grasslands Marathon here.

Backups and Contingency Plans: The Weekend Traveler’s Key Tool

The theft of my iPhone in Senggigi (in all honesty, due ENTIRELY to my own negligence), my very own amusing CSI Lombok experience with the local police and “Find my iPhone” maps that were virtually useless on a largely uncharted island, and the ultimate combination of threats and bribes that finally got the phone back into my own hands, made me realize how much we take for granted, and how easily a weekend voyage can be ruined without adequate advance planning.  But hopefully these tips, and accounts of my own travel snafus, will be of some use!

Even the most seasoned, well-prepared traveler can find him or herself in an unexpected jam.  Sometimes this is entirely of one’s own making (a moment of spaciness, forgetfulness, or general fatigue).  Other times it is simply  an instance of Murphy’s Law, or the universe conspiring to make life inconvenient at the most inopportune moments.  Being prepared for the worst case scenario, however, can make these travel hiccups bearable.  So, in order of likelihood:

1)  Weather

Inclement weather and inappropriate attire can place a spanner in the works of any trip.  Too many times I’ve seen people who traveled for hours turned away from holy shrines due to inappropriate attire, shivering on so-called tropical mountains, or otherwise paying an extortionate amount for appropriate gear on site.  And yes, on occasion I’ve even been one of said travelers.  My weirdest experience was getting caught in a freak rainstorm in Eastern Europe and having to explain to bemused immigration officials how my Hungarian visa stamp had literally washed out of my passport which had been rather foolishly stowed in the back pocket of my jeans.  (I was 19 at the time, so perhaps can be forgiven for the lapse in judgment.)  A more plebeian instance was freezing my butt off on Capetown’s Table Mountain after sunset and having to buy a US$ 100 fleece!

Nowadays I always travel with the following:  a light umbrella in my purse, layering pieces of clothing, and a scarf/sarong that in a pinch can serve as a picnic blanket, beach towel / outdoor changing station, or head/leg covering for visiting holy sites.  I also always throw in a pair of thin flip flops, one pair of sports shoes, and one pair of comfortable but presentable shoes that can go from day to night should an unexpected evening out / business meeting come into play.  While packing too many pairs of shoes is the most common a rookie mistake, bringing only one is equally risky as you are really stuck if your shoes get wet (or, as could only  happen to me, if you fall into an irrigated and fertilized rice paddy and, well, smell a bit ripe.)    Ziploc bags weigh nothing and in a pinch are great for protecting passports, wallets, and mobile phones/cameras, not to mention saving a lot of headache from leaked shampoos, gels or worst of all — oils.  (Remember that changing pressure in the baggage cabin can cause even the most sturdy travel bottles to expand/contract and therefore leak.)  For more intense, rugged travel, investing in a dry bag and/or specialized housing for your phone/camera is a worthwhile expenditure.

2)  Lost/Delayed Luggage

2.1:  BEFORE it is lost.

For most of us, bags missing a flight are simply an inconvenience.  However, before your trip there are a few steps that you can take to minimize risk and/or survive the experience.

Handcarrying the basics:  I always bring at least one extra pair of underwear, an extra shirt, prescription medication, and any other vital items in my carry-on luggage to ensure that I am not stranded unawares.  (You can choose to pack your toothbrush/toiletries, but keep in mind that these are typically easy/cheap to replace.)  I once had to go to a 9 am business meeting in a denim skort and tshirt because my luggage had missed my flight —  which happened to be the last one of the previous evening.  Luckily the meeting was with an NGO and my predicament served as an amusing ice breaker.  But it was a dumb move on my part.

Minimizing distractions and the number of items you need to take out/off in the security lane.  I was once so flustered in the Mumbai airport that I left my laptop in the security lane while running to catch a flight.  But happily I had taped my business card to the bottom of the computer, and when I called the airport upon landing, they had it safely stowed for retrieval by my very kind Indian colleague.  Taking a critical conference call while going through security at Washington National Airport, I left my watch in the bin.  It wasn’t particularly valuable, but I never got it back.  Normally I would have placed it in my bag and grabbed it off the conveyor belt, but being distracted and stressed, I strayed from my routine and paid the price for it.

Properly tagging / marking your bags:  Those with extra cash to burn / higher stakes to lose may wish to consider investing in newer RFID-tagged luggage that ensures that YOU can find your bags even when the airline can’t.   You can also invest in RFID luggage tags for a little less, but don’t make the rookie mistake of placing them on your baggage handle where they can easily break/ fall off.  Place them inside your suitcase.   And remember that even the best technology is useless if you don’t register it in advance.  But even the travel Luddite can maximize the chances for recovery by taking a few small but effective steps.

  • Include a copy of your itinerary (dates and hotel names) INSIDE your luggage.  The best place is the unlocked front pocket of your nylon luggage.  This both helps with identification and ensures that your tropical vacation gear does not get sent back to your home in sub-arctic Michigan mid-vacation.
  • Write your email address and phone number on your luggage tag.
  • Do NOT put your home address on your luggage tag.  This is an open invitation to rogue baggage handlers / thieves who have definitive proof that you are not home.  Use an office address if possible or, as stated, above simply put your electronic contact details.
  • Differentiate your bag.  Reporting a lost, unmarked black ballistic nylon bag is about as helpful as describing an Asian as having dark hair.  Popular tricks include putting colored tape on the bottom of the bag, any variety of luggage belts, yarn/ribbon, and other “crafty” solutions.  Tacky, but effective!
  • Do NOT put fragile stickers on your bag.  This essentially broadcasts that there is something valuable to steal (even if there isn’t.)  Proper packing can insulate almost any breakable item — and if it’s really that valuable/fragile, you should probably be hand carrying it anyway.

Checking airline baggage tags in advance: Yes, mistakes ARE made on occasion.  Ensuring that your bags are going to the right destination is an obvious but frequently overlooked first step.  Fully understanding procedures surrounding international transit (Do you have to clear customs with your luggage and drop it off at a separate belt?  Or does it automatically transfer through?)  is next.  Furthermore, if you are traveling an “unusual” route, don’t assume that the airline staff at your departure airport are fully familiar with the policies and procedures at your destination.  Ask again on the ground.

2.2:  AFTER it is lost.

  • Report it EARLY.  Don’t wait for the luggage belt to stop — by then there will be scores of people in line at the lost baggage desk.  If you’ve seen the same bags go around the loop twice or more, chances are that’s it.
  • Note as MANY details as possible on the form.  Bag type, dimensions, any other identifying marks make it easier to find your luggage if the airline’s tags have accidentally fallen off.  Have your baggage claim stubs handy.
  • Politely request that the staff member try to track WHERE your bag is.  Knowing that it is safely sitting in a specific airport waiting for shipment on the next flight out is VERY comforting.  If it cannot be found, ask about your options (including a stipend for replacing essential items, and potential liability for an irrevocably lost bag.)
  • Keep receipts for any items you purchase to replace essential items as they may be claimable.
  • Ensure that you know how to track the progress of your bag once you leave the airport.  Some airlines have an online system while others will provide you with a contact phone number or email address for updates.
  • Make sure that you leave contact information for the delivery driver to reach you, and an appropriate protocol (do you require a signature?  Can the bags be left on the front porch?)
  • Inform your host / hotel that a bag is expected to be delivered and when it will arrive.  This minimizes confusion upon arrival.

3)  Electronic / Technology Disasters

Theft or travel destruction of electronics while traveling is a surprisingly common occurrence.  I mentioned my own recent phone theft,

  • Backup, backup, backup.  I always back up my laptop onto an external hard drive before I leave for a trip.  What I have neglected to do in the past (and will be far more religious in doing in the future) is to ensure that my phone (and phone photos) are regularly synced to my cloud account.  Learn how to back up iPhone, BlackBerry, and Android devices.  I am probably the only person on the planet without a tablet, but back that up too!
  • Download your camera photos /videos regularly (either to a laptop or even better, onto a cloud account.)  I’ve lost more irreplaceable digital photos than I care to admit over my years of travel.  🙁
  • Know how your phone tracking software works.  Apps like Find My iPhone, Find My Android Phone and BlackBerry Protect make it easier than ever to track your phone and even communicate with the thief / finder.  Through a series of messages that the Find My iPhone app allowed me to post on my phone’s home screen, I was able to both threaten and cajole the thief by informing her that if I blocked the phone it would become a useless brick that she couldn’t resell, whereas by returning it to me she could get a reward.  Happily this turned out to be an effective approach.

4) Theft / Loss of Valuables

 The best solution is not to bring valuables at all.  But of course this isn’t always feasible — so keep these tips in mind.

  • The in-room hotel safe is NOT your friend.  I have countless friends who have lost everything from money to engagement rings and family jewelry by depending on these electronic theft traps.  If you happen to be traveling with a lot of cash, irreplaceable documents, or expensive jewelry, call your hotel manager to arrange for these to be stored in the hotel’s business safe.  Other things, like your passport, ordinary electronics, and day-to-day jewelry are far safer being locked in your luggage than in the in-room safe.
  • Separate your credit cards and cash.  Keeping your money and cards in one place may seem like the organized thing to do, but can be catastrophic when someone walks off with your bag/wallet.  Make sure that you have at least one emergency credit card and extra cash (preferably in an easily convertible currency like USD or Euros) tucked away in a safe location.  Also, in addition to cloud-based backup (I personally use MSecure because of its multi-platform reach) make sure you have the phone numbers of your card companies noted down in a notebook or other safe place so that you can instantly call to cancel/replace your stolen cards.
  • Consider whether a wallet is the way to go.  Long ago on a trip to Rome, an Italian friend gave me some great advice that I still use to this day when traveling to places renowed for pickpockets.  Put your money loose at the bottom of your bag and hold it tightly — that makes it almost impossible for a pickpocket to do a quick “slight of hand” move.
  • Have photos of any valuables that you are bringing with you readily available to include with any police / insurance company report.

5)  Fine Print / Contractual Issues

Visa Policy:  Arriving in Vientiane on a late night flight last month, I found myself in line behind a German tourist who was incredulous that the visa counter did not accept credit cards.  Luckily for her, I had extra USD cash on hand and managed to do a quick exchange.  Five seconds on the immigration and customs website could have saved here this hassle.  China has been known to incarcerate visa overstayers (though they are typically fined).  So caveat emptor!

Flight Delays:  Most people assume that if a flight delay prevents you from making a connection, that the airline is responsible for finding you an alternative flight at no cost.  This is rarely the case if you have booked two separate itineraries independently.  When you make travel plans, especially to places notorious for delays, weight the costs and benefits carefully.

Not Checking for Errors:  More times than I can count, I’ve found my name misspelled or in the wrong order on airline and train tickets.  With heightened security around the world, this simple error could mean that you will not be allowed to travel.  Recently in New Zealand, a friend of mine got a notice from the airline that her original connecting flight had been cancelled and, as a result, they had booked her on an alternative flight.  This would have been fine in theory, but it turned out that they flight they had rebooked her on departed EARLIER than her originating flight.  There was no way humanly possible for her to make it.  Given that she had important meetings the next day, this would have been a disaster for her.

6)  Force Majeure

Even in my own short life I have lived through some actually scary (Philippine People Power Revolution, Tiananmen Square) and overhyped (Y2K, Indonesia’s remarkably calm 2014 election).  I’ve also some close calls (airport bombing in Karachi, typhoons/hurricanes,  Sichuan earthquake.  It is generally a good practice to register your travel plans with your home embassy to ensure that they update you on evacuation plans should unexpected force majeure incidents impact your travel plans.  Most of my friends think this is crazy paranoia, but having been evacuated twice out of two different countries, I feel that two clicks on a website are well worth the peace of mind.

7)  Don’t Give Up! 

Finally, even when faced with the most intractable policies, never give up.  From asking to speak to someone more senior, to approaching a newspaper’s travel ombudsman, better business bureau, or regulatory agency, you may still be able to resolve your problem.  And remember that you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar — losing your cool or being insulting/arrogant with staff will far more likely harm than help your case.  (Pleading my case with a Jet Star check-in agent in Singapore and getting her sympathy saved me from baggage fees that would have exceeded my ticket price!)

 In short, expect the best, prepare for the worst — and either way remember to enjoy your trip!  Sometimes the worst travel disasters make the best stories. . .

Layover: Frankfurt in 8 Hours

Minimum layover time required:  6 hours

My European readers have complained (justly!) that I have yet to write any posts about the continent, which got me thinking about this wonderful 8 layover that I had in Frankfurt.

Follow signs for the S-bahn, Frankfurt’s commuter rail that seemed-406288_1920gets you to the central train station, Frankfurt Hauptbanhof, in less than 15 minutes.  From Haupbanhof, take tram 11, direction Fechenheim Schießhütten-straße 4 stops to Römer / Paulskirche.   (A Frankfurt transport map can be viewed here. )

Your Frankfurt adventure begins at Paulskirche, or St. Paul’s Church, an example of early Lutheran church design and the birthplace of German democracy.

Next, take a short walk romerberg-337894_1280down to Römerberg, the “medieval” city hall square that is arguably one of Frankfurt’s most noted landmarks.  (Medieval is in quotes because while the square remains true to its original architectural style, the 1405 square was destroyed in WWII and subsequently rebuilt.)  Weed through the throngs of tourists to catch a glimpse of the fountain of justice, and note the plaque commemorating the Nazi book burning .

Then, make your way down towards the waterfronbridge-194623_1920t.  Those with the time may wish to pop into the Historisches Museum Frankfurt  (which sadly was being renovated when I visited).

Afterwards, a relaxing option — assuming that jet lag is beginning to set in after a red eye flight — is to hop onto one of the Main river cruises which launch from the Eisener Steg bridge.  Commentary will focus on the different architectural styles along the river banks — interesting but certainly no match to Chicago’s river architecture cruise.  The main draw is soaking up the sun and appreciating the blue sky

frankfurt-509511_1920After your “snooze cruise” it’s probably time for lunch.  (Naturally, lunch can be enjoyed at any point along the way depending on your schedule!)   Make your way past St. Leonhardskirche to Hauptwache where skyscrapers abound. Schillerstrasse pedestrian street takes you by the Frankfurt Börse – the hub of the city’s finance district.  From the Börse, Finally, meander along the Zeil, Frankfurt’s main shopping / pedestrian street, where shops and eateries abound.

Allow yourself at LEAST 2.5 hours to get back to the airport before your scheduled departure.  From Hauptwache, catch the S-bahn (S-8 or S-9 direction Wiesbaden) back to Frankfurt Airport.

And there you have it — a lovely layover in Frankfurt!

PS:  Should your layover fall over a weekend, another option is is try The Ebbelwei-Express Historic Tram Tour, a hop-on hop-off tour on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.  Get your bearings with a downloadable podcast, enjoy a glass of apple wine (Ebbelwei) and even try your hand at learning basic Hessian.  (Full disclosure — I haven’t had the opportunity to try this but it certainly sounds fun!)

 

Weekend Exclusive: A “Quintessential” Day as a 1%er

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One day this will be my name. In the U.S. I might just BARELY get away with pretending my name is Wisnu, but in Indonesia and India they would laugh me out of the country!

I have a new mission in life. It’s to become a 1%er for just long enough to join Quintessentially‘s global “lifestyle management” and come up with a reasonable (and legal!) concierge request that completely stymies them.  (On my current earnings as a writer I estimate that it should only take a millennium or so to achieve!)

Over my global wanderings I have on occasion found myself fortunate enough to be an “HNWI by association.”  (That’s High Net-Worth Individual for you plebeian 99%ers).  I’ve flown in a Lear Jet, brunched in Palm Springs, taken a helicopter to lunch on an exclusive resort on France’s Île de Porquerolles, and hot air ballooned my way through California.  (I still kick myself for missing out on the Concorde’s final flight in 2003!)  I was the only one of my siblings NOT to be sent to finishing school (grateful eyes cast up to the heavens), but from the age of six, was expected to comport myself in a way befitting my station as an expat hopefully-not-so-brat in first class cabins and five-star hotels. (They didn’t have seven-stars back in the good old days!)

I have also played a role as “HNWI enabler,” beginning my professional career as a paralegal and personal assistant where my polyglot skills proved useful in wheedling sold-out tickets out of the Paris Opera and securing last-minute reservations at Positano’s exclusive Le Sirenuse hotel for my Europhile boss.  Conspiring with colleagues at a global consulting firm in China on how to get the ever-masked WWE wrestler Rey Mysterio, Jr. through immigration in Beijing without revealing his identity to the public and getting Meg Whitman’s corporate jet through the red tape of China’s People’s Liberation Army-controlled airspace also fall into this category of unique life experiences.

So it was with moderately experienced and very jaded eyes that I visited Quintesentially’s Jakarta office  today.  Co-founder Lius Widjaja graciously stopped in on my chat with Maketing and PR Office Darius Widjaja to learn more about this global yet local concierge service, and the expectations of Indonesia’s elite.

A number of things instantly strike me.  First, where one might expect airs and condescension, instead I found passion and commitment to service.  Second, a true “the sky is the limit” approach to the the job.  Literally.  (As I write this the team is negotiating with operators in Nevada for an Indonesian client to take a trip to space!)  Third, the insanely rich can be BATSHIT crazy.  (In my humble opinion. . .)

You can read almost any media article to understand the full range of services that Quintessentially provides around the world — from Abuja, Nigeria to Warsaw, Poland.  But what interested me is how this mammoth organization mobilizes to serve some of the most difficult (my word, not theirs) people on the planet — and what these people expect out of their travel experiences.  I explain that while Weekend Crossroad doesn’t specifically cater to HNWIs, what my readership has in common with this group is a lack of time, and a desire to experience unique journeys off the beaten path.

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What does it take to be a Quintessentially Concierge?

Our Lifestyle Managers must be emotionally stable and have a good, positive attitude as HNWIs have high expectations and can be extremely challenging to deal with.  They must maintain a calm face at all times, have the patience of a saint, and be excellent multitaskers.  We frequently use the word “resilient” when we describe our work — Lifestyle Managers must be able to withstand all kinds of pressure and identify solutions for the most challenging tasks.  We save our panicking for behind the scenes!

This sounds like a 24-7-365 job.  How do you keep your team motivated and avoid burn-out?

Many of our lifestyle managers become close friends with their clients – which leads to mutual appreciation and respect.  We do encourage them to set reasonable boundaries, while our great CRM system  allows anyone in the world to step in seamlessly to help with a unique client challenge.  We also carefully limit both our overall membership numbers and the number of individuals that any single lifestyle managers oversees.  During busy times, even non-operations staff such as me step in to help.

What is the biggest challenge you face?

Time.  Most of our requests come at the last minute from extremely busy individuals or organizations who have extremely high expectations.  Most of the time we are able to make this happen.   Sometimes we get complaints about factors that are completely beyond our control — delayed flights, bad weather (requiring the cancellation of yacht trips, etc.)  But for the most part our loyal clients are extremely satisfied.

Where do you draw the line?

As you can expect, we get all sorts of crazy requests from members.  If it’s illegal or unethical this is a no-go for us.

Have you ever had to “fire” a member?

Happily this is a rare occurrence for us.  For the most part, there is a clear etiquette, ethical standard, and mutual respect between our staff and our members.  But if someone repeatedly crosses the line –for example, requesting that we procure prostitutes, or makes unreasonable requests that put our carefully cultivated relationships at risk — we have no qualms about letting them go.

Are there any experiences that you feel especially proud of? 

We once had a member whose luggage was lost somewhere on a journey between LA and Jakarta (via Singapore).  After EXTENSIVE legwork we discovered that the luggage had somehow been misrouted to Malaysia, where it was sitting unnoticed.  We delivered the newly-found bags to our member’s door, and learned that the luggage itself was of inestimable sentimental value as it was a vintage gift from his late grandfather.

I notice that your membership is heavily skewed to an older, male demographic — what, if anything are you doing to attract more women to your offerings?  

Given that our membership is primarily comprised of CEOs, directors, and entrepreneurs, today, approximately 70% of our members are men and 30% are women.  We absolutely want to increase our proportion of women members, and organize specific events — from fashion shows to exclusive personal shopping opportunities, and once-in-a-lifetime dining experiences.  We rely heavily on word-of-mouth and referrals, and this will be key to attracting more women to our services.

What kind of travel experiences do your clients expect?

As you pointed out, anyone can book a five-star hotel or a first-class air ticket.  We seek to provide our members with unique travel experiences — from the luxurious to the extreme.  For example, we once helped a member join a North Pole expedition (at our request he even planted a Quintessentially flag to prove that this happened!)  We also have a number of people on the ground who help provide what we call “local gems” — truly unique, individualized experiences off the beaten track.  Anyone can book dinner in Tuscany.  But can you have a home-cooked meal by a Michelin-rated chef with Andrea Boccelli?

True dat.  It’s gratifying to know that even though I won’t become a member anytime soon, I have a concierge expert one-tap away on What’sApp.

Observations of a (VERY) Amateur Barista – the ABCDs of Coffee

After a long (though highly enjoyable!) month of traveling, I find it quite nice to be back in Jakarta, sitting in a coffee shop, and writing at long last!  I am astounded at how the 6 hour time difference between Jakarta and Auckland is impacting me more than my typical 12+ hour experiences, so it seems appropriate that today’s post should be about coffee.

I caveat this post with the confession that I barely passed high school math or chemistry. (Many thanks to the patience and understanding of one Enrico Marchetti, then Beijing-based Scotch-Italian teacher extraordinaire!) But still I find the precision of proper coffee preparation fascinating (even though at times frustrating!)

My favorite thing about all of the teachers at ABCD — Hendri (Phat Uncle), Ve, and Izman (LatteArtBandit!)— is that they are truly driven by passion and a deep love for what they do.  They gently direct, rather than correct, and make coffee both accessible and a wonderment. No one is too dumb, or too unsophisticated for this course. And that’s really saying something for a subject that is just as complex (if not more) than its frequently more standoffish cousin, wine appreciation.

I’m not going to give EVERYTHING away, because quite frankly, if you live in Jakarta or thereabouts, I strongly recommend this course.  If I had three thumbs, I would gladly raise them all to ABCD.    But I will happily debunk some common coffee myths in this post.

coffee_plant_beanMyth 1:  Arabica is always better than Robusta.

Wherever you fall in this debate, Hendri informs us that with global warming and other environmental factors affecting the productivity of coffee plantations, the world will increasingly become a Robusta place.  (The ROBUST in Robusta is no coincidence.  Robusta grows in more climates, is more resistant to pest infestation, and matures in a shorter time than its delicate sister.)  There ARE high quality Robusta blends out there – just like there are crap Arabica ones.   Robusta is frequently maligned because of its “harsher” flavor and occasionally “muddy” texture. In truth, it is increasingly it is becoming harder to tell the difference.  And for you resident workaholics out there, know that Robusta contains two to three times more caffeine by weight than Arabica.   Fun fact — if you want to differentiate the two different types of beans in a snap – look no further than bean and furrow shape.  Arabica is oval and has an S-like furrow, while Robusta beans are round, with a straight furrow.

Myth 2: Coffee shelf life and storage – freezing makes coffee last longer

To freeze or not to freeze remains a frequent debate among us “normal” coffee drinkers.  The most common wisdom is that freezing prolongs the shelf life.  Many coffee aficionados – from Portland, OR to Brooklyn, NY have told me definitively NOT to do this, but Hendri was the only person who gave me a clear scientific explanation.  First, freezing beans produces condensation, which affects both flavor and chemical makeup.  Second, both the excess water (from condensation) and the hardness of the frozen bean will ultimately damage a good coffee grinder.  The only way to store coffee?  In a dark and airtight container in a cool and dry place. (Check out the AirScape container available here and at specialty stores).  The optimum time for enjoying coffee?  Within 10-14 days of roasting.  Still tolerable?  Within two months.  Fully stale?  Within a year.   But drinking stale coffee, however unpleasant, is unlikely to make you sick.

Myth 3:  Dark roast and light roast coffee have different levels of caffeine

Most beginning coffee drinkers (including me in my college years) begin with the belief that due to its stronger flavor and deeper color, dark roast coffee contains more caffeine.   At the next level (me until three days ago!) we graduate to the belief that light roasts are more highly caffeinated because the caffeine is “roasted out” of dark roasts. But at ABCD, I learned that caffeine is actually a very stable molecule. (Scientific American explains the decaffeination process here.) Similarly while, espresso may have more caffeine by volume because of its concentrated nature, when imbibed “normally” (i.e., not 10 shots in a single sitting) it has the same amount of caffeine as a comparably “normal” cup of drip coffee.

Ziarna kawyMyth 4:  Shade-grown coffee beans absorb flavors from their accompanying shade trees.

You will often hear coffee drinkers comment about the orange notes in Bali-grown coffee attributed to the orange trees that frequently shade coffee crops on this beautiful Indonesian island. But you would be hard pressed to find eucalyptus-tinged coffee – which is one of the most common shade trees used among other coffee growers in Indonesia.  Flavor variations in coffee come from a number of factors, including altitude (coffees grown at higher altitudes tend to feature more sweetness and acidity), temperature, soil, etc. Roasting and storage also affect bean flavor.   The most significant way that a shade tree ACTUALLY impacts the coffee it protects is how the two plants compete for resources — water, nutrients, etc.

Myth 5:  There is only one proper way to brew coffee

It would be so easy to walk into the course assuming that all of the processes and procedures taught are the ONLY way to drink coffee. There were a couple of helpful guidelines though:

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Agitation (swirling the water or gently stirring) is key to the drip coffee brewing process. The bubbles are gas being released from the grounds, while the oily top layer holds in the aroma.

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One of ABCD’s many professional espresso machines. In brewing espresso, balance and timing are key. (Photo shamelessly appropriated from the ABCD website. Many thanks Ve!)

Coffee to Water Ratio: 1:15 – for every gram of coffee, add 15 ml of water (so a full cup is something around 15g of coffee and 225 ml of water)

Ideal Brewing Temperature: Between 92-96 C (too high and your coffee will be bitter; too low and you will not extract enough flavor from the bean.)

Milk Storage: Under 5C. (Fun fact – every additional 3C reduces its shelf life by half.)

Milk Heating: Never heat over 72 C, and never reheat.

But let’s face it – the majority of us don’t have THAT much time to devote to making our morning cup of Joe, nor do we have the budget (or the counter space) to invest in high-end equipment. I really like the definition of coffee snob that Hendri provided on day one (read here).  But when I sheepishly confessed that I owned a Nespresso machine back home and asked his opinion, he had this to say.  “Is it as good as specialty coffee?  No.  But is it better than pretty much any other one button solution in the market?  Absolutely.  For people with limited time, this is a perfectly good machine.”  He added “Coffee appreciation is a process.  If people move from instant to fresh ground, from pod based drip coffee to properly pressurized machines like Nespresso, it’s all progress.  And that’s a good thing.”

ABCD also emphasizes that coffee appreciation is about experimentation. Volume of grounds, grind size, keeping or tossing the first few drops of your drip coffee (which tends to be the most acidic – good if you like this flavor, less so if you don’t!) – all are a very personal choice. So while the above formulas are general best practice guidelines, they are not a rule set in stone.

On I lighter note, I will end today’s post by sharing some wisdom from Mrs. Hughes, my 11th Grade IB English teacher. A cup of coffee will not make you any less intoxicated – it will simply make you an “awake drunk.” So appreciate a cup of specialty coffee when you’re fully sober – and stay with water while drinking!

 

Kranji, the Wild West in Singapore

When I think of the Wild West two things spring to mind: the tiny period of American history that has somehow been blown up to be a cinematic staple … or the awful Will Smith film. You know the one: not funny, with the terrible CGI spidery thing, from back when Mr. Smith was a bankable star. Anyway, I digress.  I certainly do not think of Singapore. Yet recently I found myself chugging along on a bus to what is billed as the Wild West of Singapore – Kranji.

Now if you go to Kranji, leave the notion that this is some kind of remote outlawed land on your breakfast table. This is Singapore after all. There is no such thing as remote land. However, if you are in the mood to try something a little different and maybe see another side of Singapore that isn’t all Boat Quay and Orchard Road, then there are some things to recommend.

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Kranji Reservoir is much more than a beautiful vista. It is also a key source of water. Photo courtesy of PUB, Singapore’s National Water Agency.

Kranji countryside is essentially a farmland area in the Northwestern reservoirs of Singapore that is an MRT and bus ride away.  The bus, which only services the Kranji area, stops off at the six farmlands that participate in the Kranji Countryside Association.

“What does this mean?!?” I hear you scream. The association is essentially a collection of farms that welcome visitors and are accessible via this bus. While it says online that most of the other farms in the area do not receive guests, signs you pass along the way say otherwise. So I really think it depends.

If you only have time to visit one farm, I strongly recommend Bollywood Veggies.

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Does the warrior attack the platter? Or does the platter attack the warrior?

Bollywood Veggies is a truly wonderful place. Their farmland is beautiful and allows for a very interesting and educational tour of all the things they grow. There is also a fantastic café in the middle.  (Try a glorious dish called the “Warriors Platter” and their particularly good banana cake.) If you are lucky and it is not too busy, Dillon, one of the owners, will dust off his guitar and play any song you could possibly think of. We could not recommend this place more highly.

There are a couple of key things to consider before embarking on this trip.  First, the bus only comes every hour-and-a-half, so once you get dropped off at a particular farm, you are stuck there for a good while. This is not so bad if you plan carefully. But be warned: some stops are far more interesting than the others. The goat farm left a lot to be desired, bar the fresh milk which is highly recommended. (Bring a cooler and a book, perhaps?)  The bullfrog breeding farm was OK, but did very much feel like the end of the line.

Second, the fact that you are tied to the bus stops means getting to other parts of the area can be difficult. We were told the fish farm in the southern part of Kranji is beautiful and truly worth visiting, but without one’s own transport it is a no go. Note to the Association: bike hire is the way forward because the area really feels like a different country.  In the meantime, for other business travelers, Uber is always a good option.

Kranji countryside is definitely worth the trip if you plan carefully — especially for those who are tired of the urban jungle.  Weekend Crossroad’s recommended itinerary:

Begin with a midmorning visit to the Kranji War Memorial, billed as the largest of its kind in Asia.  Next, catch the bus in time for a leisurely lunch at Bollywood Veggies.  Finally, end your visit at the Kranji wetlands (the last stop on the bus route before the MRT). Even to locals who “know” Singapore, Kranji feels like a totally different world.  Moreover, it proves that if you lift the lid on this city-state, you can find something truly unique.

Travel in the News: Weekend Crossroad’s Jennifer Hart on Charming Cirebon

I am excited to share my inaugural Jakarta Post travel article with readers of Weekend Crossroad!  The article can be accessed on the JPlus website at http://jakplus.com/?p=3674

To all my dear Bandung friends out there, rest assured that I hold your city close to my  heart.  But I hope that by reading the below article you will see why Cirebon is well worth your while.

 

 

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Launchpad Chicago: A Weekend in Springfield, IL

Happy Presidents Day (Feb 16!) to my American readers!  Rather than buying a new  car or mattress, I thought I’d share a post about the bailiwick of one of our most famous presidents — Abraham Lincoln.

Chicago, the U.S.’s “Second City” is frequently overshadowed by its more renowned elder cousin, New York and is sometimes snidely referred to as “flyover country” by people shuttling from coast to coast.  But while the Windy City is worth its own post (or several), I thought I’d focus on a place that few people outside of the State of Illinois consider — Springfield, the heart of Abraham Lincoln country and a place that is not only the seat of State government, but also a place where living history is suspended in time.

My close friends know that despite holding a driver’s license for two decades or so, I’ve acceded to my inner cheapskate envrionmentalist and vowed not to own a car for as long as I can. (My next milestone is 40 years old and looks promising so far.)  But one of the challenging things about living in the Midwest is that while Chicago’s public transportation is excellent (between bus, “El” and commuter train you can pretty much get to anywhere from anywhere), to explore further environs, you need to drive.  But one Columbus Day  (one of the U.S.’s many three -day weekends) I realized that Springfield – an approx. four train ride away — was a perfect destination.

One of the best things about Springfield is that EVERYTHING is walkable.  Even my hotel, the State House Inn, was only two blocks away from the train station (and smack in the middle of Springfield’s historic attractions.)

If you’re not a big walker, Springfield Mass Transportation offers a convenient historic sites bus route where a $3 day pass allows you unlimited rides on public buses that run 15- 30 minutes apart.

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Transit map courtesy of Springfield Mass Transit District accessed from http://www.smtd.org/pdf/historical.pdf in February, 2015.

For a weekend trip, I recommend catching a Friday evening train out of Chicago’s Union station to maximize your time.  Trains are frequently delayed because passenger trains vie for track space with massive freight cars, but there is a lot to read up on during your journey!  Here’s an easy to do weekend itinerary.

Day 1

Start the day with a visit to the Old State Capitol.  This hallowed is site of the famous Lincoln-Douglas debates that were instrumental in cementing Abraham Lincoln’s position in the national political scene, as well as his passionate “A House Divided” speech.  Thirty-minute guided tours provide an excellent overview of how politics worked (and looked) in the mid-19th century.

Cross the plaza and pop into the Lincoln-Herndon Law Offices which are overlooked by many tourists.  (They appear to be closed at present for renovations — which is a good reminder to double check all opening hours and closures before trying one of my itineraries!)

Browse among the many small shops for souvenirs, “olde tyme” candies, or anything else that strikes your fancy.

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Image courtesy of the Wall Street Journal and an interesting article about the history of the horseshoe by Joe Barrett.

Those with fearless arteries should stop in for a horseshoe sandwich (an original Springfield creation) at one of the many eateries near the Old Capitol.  (For those of you who are Canadian or familiar with the Quebecois delicacy, think poutine on crack. . .)   Sadly, as the horseshoe is a 20th century creation, Honest Abe never got to indulge. . .   And for those of you who find several thousand miles between you and the nearest horseshoe, you can feast your eyes on the WSJ article here.

Next up is the Illinois State Capitol (note, this link is not the official website but provides much interesting history) which many believe is one of the most beautiful legislative buildings in the U.S. (It’s not that I disagree — but my sample size at present is too small to compare with!)  A 30 minute guided tour allows access to areas that are otherwise closed to the public.  Visitors are permitted to observe the State House and Senate when they are in session (sadly I went during a holiday so I missed this opportunity.)  Tour times change by season so check in advance to see what times are offered.  Also be prepared for security screenings in advance of your tour so you are not late.

Lincoln Home National Historic Site (Book in advance!)  These  tours are very popular, so it is highly recommended that you book in advance.  In my case I just walked over to the visitor center in the morning and secured a free ticket for the late afternoon.   Tiny by today’s standards and at $1,200 highly affordable as well!  On a side note I kind of geeked out here wondering how much this was in today’s dollars – turns out it’s more complicated than you might think!  But still well within my budget unlike today’s property market!  The site includes several other restored homes — and one of my personal favorite things was the bookstore at the visitor center.  If you have the time, it’s very interesting to compare day and night vistas.

Lincoln Ghost Walk This evening lantern-lit tour was a LOT of fun.  Led by the highly entertaining Garret Moffett, it is more mysterious and thought provoking than truly scary, and is kid-friendly.  Historians make much of Mary Todd Lincoln’s unique approach to spiritualism and mysticism, but Abraham Lincoln himself shared some of these interesting beliefs which are reflected in the home she shared with her famous husband.  You’ll learn about these and much more on the tour!

End your day with a late dinner and glass of wine at Saputo‘s, another Springfield institution where many a backroom deal has been brokered.  If you’ve been to Italy you are not going to be overly impressed with the food (though is it quite palatable!)  But the true reason you’re going there is for the ambiance.

Day 2

Mosey along for a pleasant 30-40 minute walk or catch the bus to the Lincoln’s Tomb, where it is traditional to begin your visit by rubbing the nose of the giant bronze bust of Lincoln’s head for good luck.  The tomb itself is somber as befits its purpose and is both simple and majestic at once.  It’s a nice place for reflection.

Continue on to the Abraham Lincoln Museum and Presidential Library which has attractions for all ages.  Again, one of my favorite things about this place was the gift shop, where I loaded up on books and bought some earrings that I still wear today.  More sobering but equally interesting was the civil war documentary and artifacts from that era.

Those with kids may also want to check out the Illinois State Museum (full disclosure — I did not make it there!)

The last train to Chicago leaves at around 7:30 pm (again, please double check!)  So do a time check and figure out if you want to add anything from the proposed architecture side tour below.

Architecture Side Tour

Beyond politics, Springfield is also the site of some interesting architecture.  Depending on the pace at which you visit other attractions, you can just about cram this into a full weekend, or alternatively take a second day off.

Architecture buffs can check out the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Dana Thomas House, which I found interesting because despite being his 72nd building design, was the first time he was truly allowed to “go to town” and do whatever he wanted.  It’s a fascinating house with an amazing balcony designed to optimize live music performances from both an aesthetic and an acoustic perspective.

Another place worth visiting is the Vachel Lindsay Home, where you can enjoy a guided tour of a 19th century tour house and learn about a poet you probably have never heard of <blush!>.

I apologize for the lack of photos — unhelpfully they are all on my camera which is in storage in the U.S.

Launchpad and Staycation — Discovering Manila with Carlos Celdran

Like so many who travel to a new city, I had no idea what to do first. Lucky for me, my Lonely Planet guide distilled in woman form – my girlfriend – is much better at this than me.

So off we went to discover as much about Manila as we could in 36 hours. First stop: the American War Cemetery. As a couple, we are normally big supporters of using local transport. You can understand a lot about a city by its transport (or not, if you have experienced the inverted maps in Taipei’s metro stations). However, if you are time pressed the only way to cover such great distances effectively in Manila, for the time being, is in a taxi. On reaching the cemetery you are blown away by how beautiful the grounds are and it strikes you just how important the relationship between the US and the Philippines is. This relationship becomes increasingly apparent the further you dive into Manila’s underbelly.

This underbelly led us across Malate to Chinatown.

Chinatowns come in two forms – the ones that look like the 1930s depiction of Shanghai found in most films and the Chinatowns that are living and breathing communities. The Manila Chinatown falls into the latter. Of course, this meant that there was little of spectacle to entertain but nonetheless a worthwhile venture just to understand the part Chinese migrants played in Philippines.

Next up was the beating heart of Manila’s past. Intramuros.

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Even the clothing doesn’t do justice to the insane brilliance of Carlos Celdran.

Intramuros is a gateway to understanding the Catholic and Spanish influence of the past. The walled-city houses Fort Santiago where the shrine of their national hero, Jose Rizal, is kept, the remaining Manila cathedral, and streets upon streets of buildings that offers just a small insight into the Philippines past. All my preconceptions were swept away with the fantastic tour hosted by Carlos Celdran. Part performance artist, part comedian, and absolutely the history teacher you wished you had at school. Carlos gave us, and about 70 others, a tour that threw open our understanding of Spanish colonialism, Catholic rule, and the part America played into turning the ‘Pearl of the Orient’ into a place very much confused by its own identity.

With his performance still vividly in mind we decided to watch the sunset and drink in some surroundings of a city whose charm very much creeps up on you. Obviously not all travel needs to be conducted on the back of a bike, and sometimes paying a little extra brings its benefits. So head to the Bayleaf Hotel, grab a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the sea whilst enjoying a complete view of some of the very best of Manila.

Finally, our day ended with a few drinks. The main reason to go for drinks anywhere in Manila, in my opinion, is so that you can drink the excellent rum, Don Papa. I really would advise anyone who has a taste for rum, or any spirit for that matter, to take some time out to try.

The next day we had a little time to head over to Rizal Park, where the national hero is buried. If you have more time than we had, fitting in the park just after Intramuros is easy to do as they are almost next to each other.

So that was it. When I left Manila I suddenly realized why I had such sporadic knowledge of the place. It’s simply because as a city, and as a country, it is still trying to work out what it is today. This makes it a truly difficult place to know and a truly fascinating place to discover.